Unique Monsanto

The doggies let me sleep until 8 a.m. My little darlings! I threw on some trousers, a sweater and a jacket over my pajamas and took them out. It was good that I had a hood too, because an icy wind was blowing. Phew, but that wasn’t what we were promised! What's going to happen to our plans? Thank God, by the time I finished my morning routine, the wind had died down and the sun came out too. Thank you, Lord! It pays for living next to a church and putting up with 605 rings of the big bell each day.

I had to go shopping because there was nothing to eat at home. I loaded the dogs into the car and first took them for a run and sniff around. In the shop’s parking lot I found a nice shady spot, rolled the rear windows halfway down and went in to do the shopping. I managed to buy everything I needed and—ta-daaaaaam—I found Mon Chéri too. Woohoo! I was completely desperate, because since I arrived in Portugal, there had been no Mon Chéri anywhere, not even at Aldi, and for me it’s the crown jewel of my coffee ritual. I almost drink coffee just so I can eat Mon Chéri with it. A killer pairing. But, with Mon Chéri it’s mandatory to put it in the fridge well before enjoying it: the chocolate and the cherry have to be crispy crunchy, and the alcohol has to cool you off. Only then does it make sense. Okay, that’s my creed — everyone should do it however they like. Although I don’t understand why anyone would do it differently.

Today’s destination was Monsanto. This village is famous for having won the title of the most Portuguese village in 1938 because it preserved the character of the traditional Beira villages. Another reason for its fame is that the medieval stone houses were built between, under and on top of huge granite boulders. The unique hilltop settlement, with 500-million-year-old fossils and an impressive castle, was also a filming location for the Game of Thrones prequel series House of the Dragon (House of Dragons). Several houses, such as Casa de Uma Só Telha, were built under a single massive rock. This village combines a medieval atmosphere with a dramatic natural landscape, making it one of the most special tourist destinations in central Portugal. I’m very happy that that film about Portugal popped up for me on YouTube. That’s where I first came across the name Monsanto and I knew I had to come here. 

Panka was off-leash the whole time; she was very good. Gerbeaud was on a leash until, on the way down the very steep stairs and rocks, I let him go so we wouldn’t restrict each other’s movement and any potential fall. Then, while I was photographing the pig stalls, the little adventurer took off. Why not, right?! I called and called—he didn’t come. After the fifth call, Panka and I started down the village streets. I was sure he’d turn up sooner or later. In the meantime, a Spanish couple stopped me to ask if I would take a photo of them. Of course! Panka was milling around in front of them. “With the dog or without the dog?” I asked. “Either way, she is such a beautiful dog!” I took one with her and one without. By the way, as much as Panka used to hate being photographed, since our trip she’s become so relaxed that she just casually walks into everyone’s photos. Well, Gerbeaud still didn’t show up. I took a deep breath, turned around, told Panka we had to look for her dopey brother, and we climbed back up the steep hill — my knees practically hitting my chest — to the pig stalls. “Geeeeerbeaud!” On my second shout the little explorer appeared, panting. I’ll be honest: the moment I see him, my anger and worry evaporate — he’s such a cool little guy. And luckily, there are no cars, no motorbikes, no wild animals here. Of course I put him straight back on the leash. At times like this, Panka jumps around in front of Gerbeaud’s face for about two minutes, as if to say: “Where were you?? Didn’t you hear Mum calling? She was totally on edge about where you disappeared to. I must say, I’m a bit jealous. But I’m ‘Goody-two-shoes Panka’—I wouldn’t dare do what you do. Later I’ll sniff you really well to find out where you went and who you met, okay?”

I found a little outdoor restaurant with a free table. I tied the dogs up in the shade. Panka totally sulked. I could see her sneaking glances at me with a look on her face that said: “Why is this necessary? It’s so humiliating. You know me — you know what a good dog I am. In fact, not just good: well-behaved! I always come when you call, I avoid everyone, I don’t wrap the leash around anything or anyone because, you know, I’M NOT WEARING ONE. So why are you doing this now?” “Because, my sweet little dog, I’d like to eat my dinner in peace and not constantly watch you to see whether a cat crosses the road. Because that would set even you in motion. I’m responsible for you, for the cat, and for any people who might pass by. That’s why. No appeals: the verdict is final and to be carried out immediately—LEASHES ON BOTH DOGS.”      

While I was eating, a bus of Portuguese tourists arrived. The next 10 minutes were spent with everyone watching how the bus driver would turn around in the narrow space available. After a few “Ooooooh!!” and “Aaaaaah!” he managed it; the passengers first wiped the sweat from their faces, then burst into applause. Then they set off toward the castle... but what do they see?! Two dogs waiting and longing for understanding, petting and cuddles. Well, Panka and Gerbeaud basked in the attention. After one lady realized she wouldn’t get far with me in Portuguese, she switched to English and said she also has two dogs — girls — and she adores them, and that dogs really are man’s best friends. And her friend also has a dog, she just doesn’t speak English, but she asked her to tell me. Then the friend even pantomimed that she has three cats as well. It really seems, they love dogs and cats here.

Meanwhile I’m also looking at the characteristics of our next stop, and they write that Porto is very dog-friendly, but in public areas they have to be kept on a leash. I still don’t know how I’ll drip-feed this information to Panka. Although I think that if in Sintra nobody yelled at us — what’s more, they smiled and many even petted her, even though that’s a major tourist hub — then maybe in Porto we’ll also give going leash-free a try in Panka’s case. We’ll be cautious.

We got home from Monsanto at quarter to four, and the kids got so tired from all the experiences that after dinner they only got out of bed until quarter to ten just to turn over, and then they flopped right back down. That’s the way to do it. And I caught up on my backlog of English and German translations.

In the evening the wind picked up again. If it works like this — only in the morning and in the evening — I’m not complaining.